How To Sew: Fabric Storage Boxes


This great little project solves two problems at once – what to do with all the odds and ends of fabric you have leftover, AND where to keep the ones you don’t use to make it! Fabric baskets are a great way to put a pop of colour into your storage, and a quick and easy project anyone can manage.

Getting ready


Fabric of choice (a stiffer fabric works best for the outside)
Interfacing (if your outer fabric will need some support!)
Card for template if required
Any decorative supplies you wish to use


Sewing machines
Scissors or rotary cutter
Pen or pencil

Preparing the fabric

First, you’ll want to cut out your basic pieces. To make the box, simply find yourself something square, and draw around it. Add another box next to each of the 4 sides, and you’re done! 4 edges connected to the base – it should look like a big plus sign. Cut out one for your outer fabric and your inner fabric, as well as one of your interfacing if your fabrics aren’t sturdy. As I’m using quite a plain outer material, I’ve appliquéd a square of patterned fabric onto each of my box sides, for a faux patchwork feel – but you can decorate them however you like. Make sure to do it at the beginning while the fabric is flat, before you start sewing everything together!
I’ve also ironed some creases into my thicker outer fabric, to make it easier to shape later. I’ve simple folded each of the 4 outer side over the base square, and ironed along the fold.

the outside fabric with the patches sewn on, and the lining


To add some texture to the lining, and extend my quilt/patchwork theme, I’ve added a small flower motif scattered around the inside fabric. I’ve created these using and thread colour that closely matches the main colour of the fabric, and the flower stitch attachment foot. For this shape, I’ve set my sewing machine to a long wavy stitch on the largest circle, which produces a simple 5 petal flower.


embroidered detail made with the flower foot attachment


Sewing them up

Once your two fabrics are cut out and decorated, take them one at a time and fold it in half diagonally across the middle square. It should turn into an L-shape, with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. If you’re using interfacing, work it at the same time as the outer lining. Pin the L-shape together, and sew along the two edges that lead up to the diagonal line. Once they’re secure, open the fabric up as much as you can, and then fold the fabric again in the same manner – but diagonally between the two corners you haven’t sewn up to yet.


the two edges to sew after folding


Congratulations, you should now have two boxes to work with! Place the outer fabric box inside the lining fabric box, with the right side facing each other (so the outer fabric box has RS facing out, the lining fabric box has RS facing in). Use a pencil or the ends of your scissors to poke the corner down into each other and ensure seams all line up, then pin along the top edge of the boxes. Sew a seam long 3 of the 4 edges, leaving the 4th one open to allow you to turn the box inside out.


leave one side open to turn the basket out


pulling the lining out through the open edge


Finishing off

Once you’ve pulled the lining out through the open top edge, iron down the 3 edges you have already sewn to flatten them out, and iron down the outer and lining fabrics of the open edge. This will make it easier to sew them together!  Slip stitch the open edge closed, and iron it out flat. It’s worth working the tip of iron right down into the bottom corners and along all the seamed edges to really bring out the shape nicely.


slip stitch open edge closed to finish


If you make one, tow, or a whole host of these, we’d love to hear about them. Why not show us some photos on our Facebook page or tweet them at our Twitter account!

How To Sew: Christmas Bauble Pockets


It’s nearly a month ‘til Christmas, and we’re starting to feel festive! Nothing makes the festive season feel more personal than spending an evening making your own decorations, which is just what we’ve done! These cute little bauble decorations have a pocket inside to put sweets and treats in, and we think the hidden treasure inside make them twice as fun to have around!

christmas pocket baubles


This project is an easy one that’s great for beginners or children (with supervision of course). That’s not to say you experienced sewers won’t enjoy it of course – although these quick little baubles are simple to put together, there are endless possibilities for decorating and you can get as extravagant as you like. With accessories, cut outs, hand embroidery, fabric painting or even with some of the decorative stitch settings on your sewing machine! As well as being festive fun, these are a great use for fabric scraps, ribbon, and left over craft items and good to clear out stash leftovers. Get as creative as you can!

Getting ready


Fabric of choice (felts or stiffer fabrics work best)


Ribbon for hanging tabs

Card for template if required

Extra ribbons, beads, fabric, felt, glitter etc. for decorating


Sewing machine

Scissors or rotary cutter


Pen or pencil

materials and supplies

Our first step is choosing the pattern! I used a simple round shape, but more vintage bauble shapes like elongated drops, stars or hearts could look lovely. You could use a mix of shapes and sizes for something a bit more fun. There are plenty of free templates on the internet if you want to try something more exciting! For this plain circle template, you can simply draw around something of the right size, about 5 inches across – I’m using the spool my ribbon came on! For other shapes, draw a template out on to some card, and cut carefully around it.

Making the baubles

On to your fabric, draw around your template – remember for each bauble you need two of the shape you’re cutting, one for the front and one for the back. Cut out the pieces and match them up into pairs. For each back piece, cut a length of ribbon 4 inches long. Fold the ribbon in half, and pin with the two ends roughly ¼ of the way down from the top of the bauble. Sew a wide zigzag over the ends of the ribbon to secure the hanging tab and stop the ends from fraying away.

Adding the tabs

Before you attach the back piece to the front piece, you’ll want to make sure any decoration that has to be sewn on is completed (if
you’re hand sewing or gluing bulky decorations such as beads or buttons on, or using fabric paints and glitter, leave these until the
end instead). A great easy decoration is to take a length of ribbon the width of the bauble, pin it across the middle and sew along the long edges in a decorative thread.

Once your front pieces are decorated, take the back pieces and pin one to each front. Because these decorations are so small, I’m using a decorative sparkly thread and am letting the stitching show – the plain sides of both fabric pieces are inside. If you have a thinner
fabric, or prefer not to have the stitching visible, have the decorated side and the tab side facing each other on the inside when you pin. (For this method, you may have to cut small notches into the edge of the fabric up to the stitching, to allow you to turn it inside out without wrinkles). When you sew around the edges, remember leave an opening about an inch down from the top of the bauble, so that you can pop your little presents inside!

Attaching the pieces

Finishing up

When the tabs, front and back are attached, simply tie off and trim your threads, iron flat if necessary, and hang them up! Once you’ve finished your baubles, they’re very versatile to use around the house – why not use them to hang sweets on your Christmas tree, or small toys for children? If you have the time, making 25 and hanging them as a wall bunting is a great alternative to a traditional advent calendar, with toys or treats in for each day! You can even make the decorations into to numbers to help kids count the days until Christmas!

hanging the baubles

Happy sewing everyone! If you make a set of these, we’d love to hear about it. Why not take some photos and post them to our Facebook page or tweet them at our Twitter account! Tell us what you used to decorate them, and how you’re using the finished thing!

How to make a Bandana Bib

My name is Anoushka. I’m married to my Husband Alister we have 2 boys, Jackson aged 11 years and Hugo aged 7 months. I work full time as a technical trainer in an engineering environment and decided I needed something girly in my life! I’ve always wanted to learn how to sew so back in April this year I decided to buy Hilda (my Toyota DFL machine) and join a weekly evening sewing class at my local community centre.
I absolutely love the classes and I’m learning so many new things every week. I’ve now got the confidence to try out new projects at home, the bandana bib being one of my favourites as I had been spending a small fortune on buying these bibs from businesses online at around £4-5 each! I can now make 4 of these bibs for the same price using brand new material (patterned cotton backed with fleece) but this design can also be made even cheaper using old baby grows/clothes lined with flannelette sheets or virtually anything else you can find.
I personally love using button fasteners on this design as there are so many to chose from and they look so cute but you can use popper fasteners or velcro (new or from old clothing) if you like.
How to make a Bandana Bib
You will need:
  • Material for bib front (cotton, old baby grow etc)
  • Material for bib back (can be the same as the front but for this I used fleece as it’s lovely, soft and absorbent)
  • Matching thread
  • A button or any other type of fastener
  • Pins
  • 1 x A3 sheet of paper
  • Pen
  • Paper scissors
  • Dressmaking scissors
  • Small sharp embroidery scissors or scalpel (to cut inside button hole)
  • Sewing machine
  • Button hole foot (if you chose to use a button)
  • Dressmakers chalk or pencil
  • Hand sewing kit (to sew on the button)

Step by step:

1. Take an A3 piece of paper and lay it down on a flat surface

2. Fold the bottom right corner up until it meets the left edge
3. Fold the bottom left corner up until it meets the right edge
4. Using a ruler and pen mark a line (copying the picture) this will contour the neck of the bib
4.1 Cut along the line that you marked (see picture)

5.  Unfold the paper and pull away your triangle bib pattern

6.  Fold the bib pattern in half and make a straight cut at the edge (see pic)
6.1 Your bib pattern is ready!

7. Pin the pattern to your back material and cut out

7.1 Repeat the process with your front material

















8. Iron both front and back pieces (use a very low setting on the fleece)

















9. Pin right sides together













10. Prepare your sewing machine and select a straight stitch













11. Start sewing about 3 inches away from the corner of the bib (reverse stitch a little at the beginning to ensure the stitching will    not undo later) give yourself a 1/4″ seam allowance

















11.1 Continue to sew 1/4″ from the edge all the way around the bib leaving a 2 inch gap from where you started (lock by reverse stitching again)

















12. Turn the bib out the right way through the 2 inch gap













13. Top-stitch along the top edge of the bib with a 1/8″ seam allowance ensuring that you seal the 2″ gap closed along the way

















13.1 Continue to top-stitch the 2 sides of the bib, giving yourself a larger seam allowance for a more decorative finish (about 1/4″)













14. Select your button













14.1 Using some chalk or a dressmakers pencil mark the length of the button onto one corner of the bib. Attach your button hole foot to your machine and sew a button hole, mine is a 4-step:

















14.2 Step 1-sew bottom bar end

















14.3 step 2-sew left edge

















14.4 step 3-sew top bar end

















14.5 step 4-sew right edge until it meets bottom bar end and finish

















14.6 Using some very sharp embroidery scissors or a scalpel, cut a slit in the middle of the button hole, taking care not to cut any stitching

















15. Sew your button onto the opposite corner and your bib is complete (see front, back and final pics)


























Sew Successful – Buttonholes


Today, buttonholes can be placed on everything from dresses, jeans, pillows to simply just pieces of art and decorative work. Most machines come with a 4-step buttonhole foot and are able to complete the simple function with ease but, and you’re not the only one, have you ever actually given it a go?


If the answer is no or you’re not sure, here’s a video from Toyota Home Sewing to help you get started. It’s one of those “once you pop you can’t stop”  cliches …. so dig around for the long white foot (aka your bottonhole foot), open up your wonderful button collection jar, grab some spare fabric AND, have fun!!

PS. Don’t worry if you don’t already have one or you don’t seem to be able to find yours, you can purchase a Buttonhole Foot (4 step) on our Toyota Home Sewing website here.  Let us know how you get on by posting to our Facebook or Twitter pages.

Top 5 Spring Sewing Projects


Now that there’s been a good few days of nice weather and the days are officially getting longer we feel it is the perfect time to keep yourself warm & busy creating some lovely spring pieces. It doesn’t seem long since advent calendars were lining the shelves but already they’re now stacked with Easter eggs and the high streets are finally bringing out beautiful and colourful dresses once again… so even though it takes a little faith to trust that Spring is on her way, she is!!

1. Make An Owl Doorstop.

There’s no denying there’s still a chill in the air so why not make this cute and cuddly owl but use stuffing or dried peas/rice to create your very own colourful chill protector. We found this one from Toad’s Treasures and found their step by step guide very useful.

2. Fabric Easter Eggs.

What better way to reduce the temptation of all that chocolate than to replace with fabric eggs instead. Not only do they look so much prettier (and you can choose the colours yourself) but they will take away all that urge to eat them and last for next year too. Lovely free pattern at Positively Splendid.

3. Oil Cloth Lunch Bag.

I’ve yet to find someone that disagrees how wonderful Martha Stewart’s ideas can be and here’s another that fails to disappoint. It’s her oil cloth lunch bag. Spring means we can finally start making our packed lunch once again so why not grab some colourful oil cloth and give it a go.

4. Gardening Apron.

What says ‘I love you’ better than a thoughtful handmade gift? So, with mother’s day approaching we picked this easy to make gardening apron from Sew-Mama-Sew that you should be able to create just in time for 10th March. In fact I think I’ve decided I’ll make this one too.

5. Easter Bunny.

Children will love them, why not sew up some easter bunnies in your favourite fabrics. This time of year isn’t complete without the easter bunny and the great thing is you can amend the pattern to make it a spring/summer bunny instead. The tutorial we found was from Revoluzzza here.


These are just some ideas to get you started and I hope they help. Remember to post your pictures to our Facebook page and let us see what you’ve been creating. Or if you have any recommendations of your favourite projects and blogs, we’d love to hear your thoughts too.


Toyota Home Sewing


Sew Successful – Gift Bags


Have you dreamed of dressing your presents up this Christmas and giving an extra special touch to your gifts… well here’s how with this simple and stylish reversible gift bag tutorial …


 You can make it to your ideal size and choose your ideal fabric to make it perfect for anyone. It’s an eco-friendly wrapping solution and we love that … it can be used again and again for all sorts of things from storage to door stoppers as well as more gift-giving


1. Choose 2 coordinating fabrics and cut out your desired shape from each fabric x 2. This will give you 4 rectangles of the same size.

2. Pair the fabric together, right sides facing.

3. Use your Sewing Machine to sew a 1cm seam down the lengths and along the bottom of each separate bag (leave the top open).

4. Choose which one will be the exterior bag and turn it right side out, press. (Leave the liner bag inside out).

5. Slip the liner bag over the bag that will be on the exterior when completed (right sides facing). Pin bags together at the top seam.

6. Stitch the liner and exterior bag together with a 1cm seam along the top only, (making sure you only sew 1 layer of exterior and one layer of liner together all the way around).

7. Use a seam ripper to take out 3cm of the stitching on the bottom seam of your liner bag.

8. Gently pull the exterior fabric through this hole, (right side out).

9. Close the hole in the liner using your Sewing Machine (stitching close to the edge).

10. Took liner into the exterior bag and press.

11. Place the thicker ribbon around the bag about 3cm from the top and pin. (Make sure that the raw edge of the ribbon is tucked directly underneath itself, approx. 1cm, and starts on the side seam of the bag).

12. Slip the bag over the Sewing Machine arm, and place under the presser foot.

13. Stitch along the top edge of the ribbon; stop stitching before reaching the other side seam.

14. Cut the ribbon off at the seam, allow for a 1cm overhang, turn this under, align with side seam and stitch in place. (Back stitch at each side seam for reinforcement).

15. Repeat this method to attach the second piece of ribbon to the other side of the bag.

16. Stitch along the bottom edge of the ribbon (it should remain open/accessible at both ends).

17. Attach a safety pin to the end of the narrow ribbon and draw it through, pull full circle.

18. Join together the ribbon ends, remove safety pin, and tie off to secure.

19. Start at the opposite end and repeat procedure with safety pin and ribbon.

20. Simply pull on the ribbon ends to tighten and your bag is finished!!





Carolyn’s Sew & Tell – With Love

We noticed recently a YouTube channel offering lots of helpful ideas and methods to help you sew some wonderful creations for yourself … and, as you know, we’re all for that here at Toyota Home Sewing. So, we wrote to Carolyn and asked her to do a special “Sew & Tell” especially for you. In the short exchanges we made with Carolyn we saw how lovely, friendly and passionate she is about sewing and her customers and we wish her all the best with the opening of her new shop in Edinburgh … be sure to pop in if you’re in the area – we will be!!
“My love of sewing and fashion has allowed me to create and mould my dream career around my little flat in Edinburgh.
After graduating in fashion in 2007 and feeling a little bewildered on what route to take, I soon found myself catching my first design job – creating a dress for a Miss Universe contestant. After this job, I felt that this was where I belonged – making women feel glamorous! Within 18 months, I am proud to say, from that day I have now built a dress label which has featured on the The Bachelor TV show and with various celebrity fans including Katie Piper and Millie Mackintosh.
Despite this rapid success the last year I still run my business from my little 1 bed flat in Edinburgh. However this is soon going to change as I open my first shop in Edinburgh later this month.
Throughout college I felt a little behind and less capable in my pattern cutting than my other class mates. I soon found out this was due to me having dyslexia. Despite this, dyslexia was never something which hindered me too much as I worked my own way around pattern cutting creating my own techniques. One thing that did bother me however was the first time I tried to sit down and follow a pre-made pattern. Everything suddenly became jumbled and I soon got frustrated and gave up. Rather that this being a negative thing I decided to put my dyslexia to good use. Along with my dress label I am also a Youtube partner giving tips on fashion and beauty on a budget. I decided to use my simplified pattern cutting techniques to turn the written instructions in video form. I created a series of short videos showing how to make your own celebrity red carpet dresses and sold the simplified patterns to go with the video guide. The video instructions make it easier to follow and the patterns have various symbols on them to match up the pattern pieces. My intention was to turn pattern cutting and dress making into a more accessible thing using 21st century technologies. I hoped to tap into young woman who maybe viewed dress making as complicated or old fashioned.
The thing I love most is when I am sent photos of girls all over the world wearing their dresses to proms & special events. It always puts a smile on my face.”
Carolyn Baxter has her own website of the same name that sells her unique designs & patterns and she also has her own YouTube channel that we think is just amazing and we are sure you will too … Here’s Carolyn’s personal recommendation especially for you  … How To Make Your Own Madison Dress
Check It Out .. Be Inspired!!

Sew Successful – Ruffles


We recently recommended a simple and effective sewing idea that can be added to any sewing project to give a professional and unique look: RUFFLES!!

For anyone new to sewing or this technique, ruffles are basically strips of closely pleated fabric used mainly for trimming or decorating your fabric from flat to frilly. Thank goodness for clever people and modern technology…because now gone are the days were, to achieve this look, you’d need a good ruler, pins and a LOT of time and patience…thanks to the amazing Ruffler Foot…transforming and dramatically reducing sewing time, preparation time, (& stress levels)!!  Although at first sight a ruffler may appear bulky and complicated, its innovative design actually makes it very easy to use.


The Toyota Ruffler foot is a swappable presser foot part for your sewing machine that can be used to produce pleats and ruffles for anything from home décor to clothing projects. It speeds up the process of ruffling and has the ability to be adjusted to create loose or tight ruffles depending on your project!! Once you’ve tried and tested it out we guarantee you’ll suddenly find a lot more places and ways to use and add this effect!!


We love helping and inspiring you with your Home Sewing projects and so we thought we’d talk to you in a little more detail about the accessory that makes ruffling easy and fast:

  1. Measure the length of fabric, remembering that a piece of fabric that has been ruffled will be shorter than it was originally (the standard rule is to cut the piece 2.5 times as long as you require)
  2. Your width will be dependent on whether you want a single layer, or folded/double strip (for folded strips simply add the seam allowance onto your width and multiply by two)
  3. Before you start sewing, and once your fabric is all cut out, press the strips
  4. Attach the ruffler to your sewing machine once you have removed the original presser foot
  5. Once the foot is secure it is recommended, and important, to test gather some practise strips on a scrap piece of fabric to get the look you want based on the look you are going for
  6. Insert the fabric into the machine and sit along edge *(raw side should be facing into the body of the machine – watch the demo video to show)
  7. Drop your needle down and start gathering *(remember to keep your fabric moving smoothly)
  8. To secure the stitch at the beginning or end of your sewing, you can back tack if you’re sure it is the desired effect and length, or, you can secure the thread with some fabric glue once you are happy with the adjustments
  9. You now have beautiful strips of ruffles or pleats to add to your projects!!
Sewing; one ruffle at a time …
  • Add length to skirts, tops or dresses that have become too short
  • Add detail and texture to children’s clothing
  • Add ruffle edging to curtains, pillows, lampshades

Fit Like A Glove


Fit like a glove



Now that cold nights are here to stay for a while…why not give sewing yourself a snug fit of funky fur or fleece gloves a go to warm up your spirits, and your hands!! They are simple to make and make great personalised gifts for others too. Keep your hands warm on the move, I mainly feel the cold when I’m driving or in the office typing…so I’ve made my own fleece gloves to keep my hands cosy and they are always catching people’s eyes…try them, you’ll love it!!















I also often find my hands get cold quickly because I have a touch screen phone and have to remove the whole glove to operate it, or, wear mittens and the tips of my fingers freeze…so, why not make these gloves with a little slit in one finger especially to be used to sneak out your main finger to touch your phone with and type or even just to quickly answer calls with!!

  1. Draw around one of your hands and add a 1.5cm seam allowance around the outer edge, rounding off the tops into curves and a 3cm hem at the opening.
  2. Trace off your pattern and trace a reverse to create the opposite hand too.
  3. Fold your fabric in half lengthways, right sides together and pin to secure, ensuring the edges touch.
  4. Place both your pattern pieces on top of the fabric keeping them in line with one another if there is a pattern in your fabric especially.
  5. Cut out the patterns – this should provide you with 4 pieces of fabric.
  6. Remove pins and place back into each new pattern.
  7.  Mark the stitching lines as the diagram shows with tailor’s chalk or fabric pen, using your original hand template.
  8. It works best with a 0.5cm seam allowance or ¼” and stitch all around, right sides remaining together, from one side edge to the other, keeping the bottom open.

*Stitch slowly around the curves and carefully pivot at the dots between the fingers.

  1. Trim all seam allowances if necessary and cut down to the marked dots, without touching the actual stitching.
  2. Repeat steps 7 & 8 with the second hand.
  3. Make a double hem at the opening by folding the fabric under twice, no more than the 3cm allowance you have allowed for.
  4. Remove the accessory box on your sewing machine to access the free arm and slide your glove over it and sew both layers of hem to finish sewing.
  5. Remove all pins and turn through to right side.
  6. Test the glove fits and repeat steps 12 & 13 with the other glove.
  7. Finish with any embellishments, ribbons, or alterations you want to make.


Sewing Machine Cover


Treat your sewing machine to a pretty makeover and a new winter coat using this simple sewing machine cover idea.


It’s no secret that your sewing machine needs looking after, especially from dust, which means it’s important you find that protective instinct over it and remember to cover it up after each use. So, I totally recommend this fun and simple project to design and make your own sewing machine cover. You could even make them as lovely gifts for sewing enthusiast friends.


You will be using your sewing machine and favorite fabric to, not only create a functional cover, but a unique funky one that will compliment your sewing personality and look great in whichever room you store it and to whoever sees it. Just like fashion…your creation can serve a purpose whilst worn but also making your sewing machine look very trendy at the same time!!


  1. Begin by taking your machines basic measurements, bearing in mind machines may vary in size.
    • Measure from the centre point at one of the smaller sides, taking it round the back, and to the centre point on the opposite smaller side. Add a 1.5cm seam allowance around and this provides you with your width measurement.
    • Measure from the base of your machine to the highest point (decide on whether you will be leaving the machine threaded or unthreaded), add on 2cm seam allowance to base and top. (if you cut the fabric on the fold bear this in mind).
    • Use these measurements to cut out the fabric pieces x 2 and lining pieces x 2 (you can cut out paper patterns before cutting the fabric if you find this a useful aid). Iron all your fabric pieces.
  2. Iron all your fabric pieces.
  3. Place the 2 main fabric pieces right sides together and sew a 1cm seam around the sides, leaving the bottom open.


  4. Repeat step 2 with the lining pieces (it will be reversible so choose a matching fabric).
  5. Slip the sleeve over your sewing machine to test the fit…you can take it in a little more if you feel it needs to be snug.
  6. When you are happy with the final fit, place the fabric over the machine again and put a pin where you feel the corners should be rounded off. When happy, mark this with a few soft dots.
  7. Remove thesleeve from the machine and lay it onto a flat surface.
  8. Smooth out one side at the top so that the corner seams lie on top of one another and neatly match up.* Do this process to both the main fabric and lining, however we recommend starting with your lining first (so any amendments are easy to hide).
  9. Use a ruler and your dots as a guideline and mark your sewing line.
  10. Follow the process with the opposite corner; measure the distance on the one you already marked, from the corner edge to the sewing line and ensure these equally match up before drawing the sewing line on the second corner.
  11. Place a pin in either corner keeping the 2 layers of fabric in place and the seams inline.
  12. Sew directly across your marked line on either side and check the fit by, once again, sliding it over your machine and amend accordingly if need be *If it’s too tight you will need to unpick the sewing line and move it closer to the corner, or if it’s too loose then sew in a second sewing line further away from the corner  (remember to use a ruler to draw the sewing line and whatever you do to one side you must do the same to the opposite.
  13. Once you’re happy it fits just as you want, cut off the excess corner fabric.
  14. Slot your main fabric inside your lining (right sides together) and pin in place at the seams and around the rest of the fabric to secure in place.
  15. Stitch the main fabric and lining together with a 1cm seam around the bottom to close, leaving a small turning gap of about 6cm.*Again, fit the sleeve over your machine before sewing and make a decision as to whether it needs a greater seam at the bottom to make it fit snug. It may need more than 1cm.
  16. Pull all fabric to the right side through this turning gap and pull out the corners and seams neatly.
  17. When you are happy you have pushed through all the fabric and it is looking finished, close the turning gap with a neat straight stitch (chose your thread to match the fabric or contrast it and sew all the way around the rim.)
  18. Lightly press

Further ideas, tips and thoughts:

  1. Add creative finishing touches around the bottom edge using ribbon or you could use any trim or lace to best suit your design.
  2. Why not applique or embroider on a personal design or your initials.
  3. If you wanted to experiment with it you could add another layer of chosen fabric, half the depth, as a long pocket by placing it between the main fabric before sewing your seam around the 3 edges (or even stitch in sub dividing sections to this to give several pouches).
  4. Rather than using it as a cover solely for static machines, you could create it with a hole in the top to allow the handle through and so that it becomes a travel cover also.
  5. Add decorative piping down the side seams by placing it in between the two layers, before sewing the seam around the main fabric.